Breakdown of the deck of the model ship

The first step to cover the deck is to fit the false deck with the frame. The false cover is usually made of 1 mm plywood and slightly adjusted on the various partitions supplied with the kit. Mark the center line of the deck from the nose to the pointer, ensuring that it is aligned with the cord and that the bulkheads fit into the grooves on the false deck. This fit can not be easy or loose. The false deck makes it easier for the deck to fit and fit more and more evenly.

The fake lid extends from the center line to both the right and the port side. The degree of conicity is usually shown on the line of the water line, which belongs to the kit whose dimensions must be indicated by the builder on the partition walls. If the plans do not indicate the ditch, the general rule ¼ "rises to every foot, so in example 1:48 the last article, where the width (beam) is 56 ft, the increase is 13/32" or 10 mm from the center line to the gate or right edge. Make sure the mere design (length) matches the body design (depth) and remember that the on-board curvatures do not always follow the same curvature of the hull precisely. This is because the top of the ship is lower in the water than the bow. The center of the strict and nose level is the boat's length approx. 3/4. If the designs do not match, they will be modified or the fittings such as the cannons will not sit properly on board (the bullets should be slightly down). You also need to measure the distance from the water line to the top of the false deck to ensure accuracy with the hull. If necessary, soak the fake bottle in warm water or warm water with ammonia to get the necessary rolling resistance. Do not forget to soak the tree, use only with warm water and leave the object in the water for up to 15 minutes. So the wood cells will be flexible but not broken down.

If you are satisfied with the flap of the fake lid, make sure that the fence is close to the fitting tube or the steering column. The wood adheres to the wall panel with the adhesive and taps to the partitions. After the false lid is firmly installed, mark and cut openings previously designated for masts, openings, lattices, and cutters. It's better if the false deck is in place because the roar of the deck

You are now ready to skate on the false deck. The decks were usually clear. The width of the board is 8 inches to 14 inches in comparison to the model of the 18th century, 5.82 mm in average, but not all of the vessels have the same width, so any width between 4.23 mm and 7.41 mm would be acceptable. The thickness of the board changed from deck to deck. Lower deck thickness was up to 4 "(2.12 mm) and top 3" thick (1.59 mm). Keep in mind that the length of the board should not exceed 140 mm (5.5 ")

especially at rounded edges near the bow, the end of the page represents 1/3 of the width of the page and the length of the salon is at least twice the size of the board is three, four, and French vessels, five slides, for example this means that four trays move equally between the first and fifth planes in a four-axle arrangement so that the dices are cut in even and proper lengths, you can still use this jig on the nail pattern

On a full-size boat, a 3/8 "wide (.2 mm) deck between both the longitudinal and the lower ends was suitable for the damper. The decks were eviscerated, then collected with oak (animal hair, sphagnum moss or hemp and tar mix) and the seam was paid with pitch. There are several ways to simulate the striplines. Depending on the method used, the striplines must be applied before the on-board trays are attached to the false deck.

o A black adhesive between the threads can be glued

o Another method of marking the edges of the edges is to mark the pen to be sure the pen does not bleed into the wood and gives a fuzzy line.

o Another method is to use a soft black pencil and darken it. Using the pencil, the shrinkage lines will not be perfectly even and will tend to get out and out. This gives a real look.

o If you plan the boards on the edge and stick them on a black sheet of paper, they cut off perfectly smooth gaps.

o The delicate look is just that the boards are so slightly apart and they allow the glue to flow between the plates. You can leave the gap and allow you to fill the seams with a colored adhesive or fill it with a mixture of graphite pastes (used for leakage) by filling the seams with any color (paint, urethane or paint). It is a bit difficult to maintain the even gap between the planks because, since the boards are glued to the hull, they need to be fastened to remove the boards.

o You can use black mortars as long as the board material is hardwood

The nail or wood nailing pattern depends on the width of the board The traditional method for adding treenails is using bamboo ribbons or hardwood spikes that extend through a drawing plate to form nails. Alternatives would be to use bristles from brushes, brass terminals, clamps, lattice brushes, or anything that came with bristles. Copper, brass or silver wires or plastic rods in many sizes and with manual or spring suction cups. After creating the tree nails, drill holes on the deck boards in the selected pattern and then tap the nails into place. After finishing, give the surface of the deck light sanding.

Once you are happy on board, you must close it with paint, stains, or urethane. If urethane is used, remember to dilute the first two layers with 30% thinner (70/30 mixture) and apply the third layer in full force.

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