The Mercedes 126 is capable of astronomical kilometers if properly maintained. In order to maximize vehicle lifetime and defer expensive repairs, it is essential for frequent oil and filter replacement with the correct lubricant. Though similar to the procedure used for most cars, there are some finer points that 126 owners need to remember. Let's look at the V-8 engine procedure:
- After the last change (and ideally before) no more than 3000 miles, take the car for a nice run to make the oil good and hot. Hot oil flows rapidly from the plug of the canal and carries the suspension sediments. Fold the car on the ramps
- First, remove the oil filter from the discharge plug to ensure good flow and prevent vacuum build-up. Place the drain pan under the filter housing to catch drips. (There will not be much, this is much more elegant design than the hard-to-reach spin on the most up-to-date cars.) Removing the convector hose for air intake makes it easy to access. I would like to loosen the oil fill cap and remove the oil dipstick.
- With the drain tray in standby mode, remove the oil trays plug with a 13 mm connector. Cover your hand with a piece of cloth to protect yourself from hot oil as the plug is removed from the last few threads. Allow the oil to spill. It's ideal overnight, but it's usually 2-3 hours enough. No, this is not Jiffy-Lube!
- While the oil dries, replace the oil filter. Filtering is essential and changing the filter is part of the reason for frequent oil change. Even if you use high-quality synthetic oils that can in theory hold far more than 3000 miles, you do not want to leave the same filter for too long. The best filters were made by Hengst, Mann and Mahle close by. Use the new O-ring for the filter cover and the new steel washer on the long fixing screw securely attached to the 3/8 drive
- If the pan stopped, replace the oil pan with the new copper ring in the filter set. (These sets generally have a larger copper ring that can be ignored as the 107 SLs.) Check that the plugs are clean; Replace the plug if there is any burr and should not turn over
- Oil capacity is 8.5 quart. At this stage, add 8.0 quarts. The owner's manual contains a viscosity guide for changing climates. Choosing the right brand of oil has become more difficult in recent years; These issues are discussed in another article.
- The 8-quarts oil in the oil boiler and the charging cap are at least partially tight, we are almost ready to start the engine and pull it off the ramp. But there is a vital step to be taken first. To protect the long timing chain, the oil pressure must be adjusted in the chain tensioner before the engine is delivered. Remove ignition by disconnecting the green (TD) cable from the ignition control unit. (The spark plug can simply be removed from the sprocket, but it sparks to the ground to prevent sparking.) Then rotate the engine for 20 to 30 seconds to create oil pressure. To do this, reconnect the TD cable and start the engine
- Add the remaining half quart from the ramp and level above the carriage. It takes time for all the oil to flow into the bowl. Whatever the reading you see on your wand represents full capacity. The measuring rods may be inaccurate; you can not always trust the min. and max. nominations. Whatever it is, do not overcharge it. Too much oil gets into the crankcase with crank seals. If the rear main seal fails, it will drip; if the front crankshaft is unsuccessful, it will be more than one drip; none is particularly easy to repair
Make sure you leak out of your serviced areas and constantly check the oil level weekly or so. Opinions are changing, but I believe that when the cold level is checked, the car is sitting overnight. Measure the old oil collected in the spout to see exactly how much the engine is used. Older cars usually experience a variety of external oil leaks, but they also have internal leaks before the valve stem and valve guides. Monitoring consumption helps to decide when it will no longer be possible to avoid these major repairs.
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